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    安溪鐵觀音口味之濃香型與清香型區分(圖解)

    發布時間: 2015-07-31 14:15    來源: 百度茶吧      瀏覽記錄:

    鐵觀音由于根據市場消費需求,不斷改進制作工藝,力求符合消費者的口味需求。現在市場上常見的鐵觀音口味分類為:濃香型鐵觀音、清香型鐵觀音,還有陳年鐵觀音(存放時間比較長的濃香型鐵觀音)。清香型鐵觀音里,常常又被細分為:正味鐵觀音(傳統工藝)、肖正鐵觀音(介于正味和肖青)、肖青鐵觀音、拖酸、拖脯(托補),這也是按照發酵的時間由段至長制作出來的。

     

    安溪鐵觀音執行的國家標準是GB19598——2004,按這個標準,安溪鐵觀音分成兩大類,一類是濃香型鐵觀音,一類是清香型鐵觀音。標準里面明確定義了它們的區別,濃香型鐵觀音顏色黑褐色,香氣口感較熟香,也稱“熟茶”。因為原來是用炭烘焙的,有炭香味,所以有的也稱“炭香型”,現在大都用電烘焙了,和炭焙一樣具有“炭香味”,也習慣上稱“炭焙型”鐵觀音。清香型是用輕火烘焙干燥的鐵觀音,保留了砂綠或墨綠的顏色和鮮香的口感,俗稱“青茶”。陳香型鐵觀音有望豐富鐵觀音的標準,成為第三類鐵觀音。

     

    下面通過幾組圖片,更能清晰的了解鐵觀音濃香型鐵觀音、清香型鐵觀音、陳香型鐵觀音在工藝上和口味上的區別,感謝茶友(境致茶香)提供的詳細介紹圖。

     

    鐵觀音 (清香型、濃香型)口味的定義

    鐵觀音 (清香型、濃香型)口味的定義

     

    鐵觀音從上世紀90年代末開始改變,受臺灣茶的影響,清香型鐵觀音在輕發酵的改革熱潮中應運而生。清香型鐵觀音可以說取得了巨大的成功,并幫助鐵觀音贏得10年的輝煌時間。清香型鐵觀音是迎合市場的產物,為鐵觀音打破區域限制(特別是北方市場),是搶占綠茶、花茶客戶群體的需要。而且干茶色澤鮮綠、清湯綠水無枝無沫,極具欣賞性,又因其香氣高揚、口味清淡,所以更受年輕朋友喜愛。這些都是傳統鐵觀音所不具備的。

     

    清香型鐵觀音與傳統鐵觀音制作流程差異

    清香型鐵觀音與傳統鐵觀音制作流程差異

     

    清香型鐵觀音制作工藝中,由于是“輕發酵”,做青茶葉紅邊較少,“一紅九綠”。 另外還增加了去紅邊的工藝,剝離葉緣紅邊,保證湯色綠亮明凈,無傳統型鐵觀音“綠葉鑲紅邊”的特點。去紅邊方法:抖散炒青葉水蒸氣后,趁熱短時搓揉或用包揉布包裹好甩包撞擊,使紅邊碎脫,然后及時篩分并攤涼回潮。經去紅邊處理的葉底其葉緣欠完整,呈不規則鋸齒狀,這是鐵觀音葉底不完整的原因。

     

    很多茶友在網上搜索鐵觀音的知識,經常看到“綠葉紅鑲邊”,但買回來的鐵觀音不僅沒有紅邊,而且葉緣還不完整,以為買到的是假貨。其實不是的,去紅邊是對傳統工藝的補充和提高,是對鐵觀音口味的鮮爽度提出的更高要求。

     

    “低溫輕發酵”工藝除了搖青較輕外,輕曬青、低溫做青、薄攤葉、長靜置、干殺青、去紅邊、溫包揉、旱干燥等工藝措施,使鐵觀音除保留傳統的品質風格外,創新性地產生出另一類品質風味。

     

    其實對于大部份茶農來說,制茶的手藝基本上是向上一輩學習,然后自己摸索出來的,每個人都有自己的手法,還要“看天做青”、“看青做青”,什么輕發酵、中發酵都是浮云。比如搖青,有的搖兩次,有的搖三次,有的搖四次,有的搖五次,還有一些比較極端的,只搖一次,什么都有。只要能做出好茶,只要能賣得上價,怎么搖都行。現在的清香型鐵觀音的分類,不管什么輕發酵、中發酵,而是按殺青的時間:第二天早上殺青,正味鐵觀音;第二天下午殺青,消青鐵觀音;第二天晚上或者第三天早上殺青,拖補、拖酸鐵觀音。.

     

    鐵觀音加工工藝關鍵環節技術總結(下圖摘自《福建農林大學》附圖)

    鐵觀音加工工藝關鍵環節技術總結(下圖摘自《福建農林大學》附圖)

     

    ——整理(境致茶香)

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